When I first started writing this I felt like a plastic pilgrim (and I was in France). I no longer feel like that, but I am shackled to the pithy title, which in any case I don't expect you hooligans to understand. As should have been obvious from the first minute, there is no such thing as a fake or plastic pilgrim, and I deserve to be here as much as anyone else. But look: pithy first, pithy always. I'll make no apologies for that.
